Back in February, we wrote about a handful of Texas pitmasters who were putting their own spin on whole hog smoking. Barbecue joints from Houston to Dallas have added this Carolina tradition to their menus, both as an occasional speciality or a regular staple. The process is fascinating—the sheer size of a hog is impressive—so we asked Todd David of Cattleack Barbecue to give us a behind-the-scenes look at how it’s done. This wasn’t the first time he’s given us a sneak peek, but it’s definitely the most thorough.

See video here: