It’s a classic boy-meets-grill story. Todd David had a real job for 30 years. During that time, he charmed his friends, family, and employees with his grilling talents. They encouraged him to turn pro. David sold his business and started a catering company with his wife, Misty, out of a tiny warehouse near Midway and Alpha. He decided to open to the public just one day a week in 2013 and two days a week a year later, but as the lines formed and word spread, he began taking pre-orders to ease the squeeze. Now David has annexed the empty space next door and added seating for 100. The loyalists we shared a table with swore his brisket with a cracked black peppercorn bark is the best in town. We found joy in cheesy jalapeño grits, beans baked with pulled pork, and thick, moist beef and spare ribs. Try a slice of brisket, but don’t leave without tasting the beef short rib; one is enough for four hungry people to share. The heavily smoked strings of meat, which resemble the texture of a tender pot roast, cling to the bone and challenge you to a delightful tug of war.

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